Mikael Svensson: The Two-Michelin-Star Chef Who Sees His Cuisine as a Metallica Album with a Symphony Orchestra

In Oslo’s industrial Vulkan district, where old factories have morphed into creative spaces, chef Mikael Svensson conducts his gastronomic orchestra with the precision of a seasoned musician and the rebellious spirit of rock ’n’ roll. Kontrast is more than a restaurant. It is a benchmark of sustainable gastronomy, boasting two Michelin stars and the coveted Green Star.

"A Greek-language version of this article appears on FNL Guide"

There is something intensely musical in the way Svensson describes his approach to high-end cuisine. “We start slow, like a soft musical intro, and we build gradually. Then we bring the tone down, and after that we rise again into a crescendo before fading out with the dessert,” he explains, his hands moving as if guiding an invisible orchestra. For Kontrast’s chef-owner, the parallels between composing a menu and creating music are not metaphorical—they’re fundamental to his creative process.

Svensson’s musical roots run deep in his devotion to Kent, a Swedish rock band that has accompanied him since their formation in 1995. “I’ve been listening to them since the beginning, but they don’t play anymore,” he says wistfully. His favorite album? Vapen & Ammunition.

But rock isn’t his only influence. Svensson admits that classical music is present in every playlist he puts on, something that surprises many. This contrast, between the raw energy of rock and the refined complexity of classical compositions, mirrors his approach at Kontrast. “Culinarily, I’m very classically trained, and the restaurant still has a classical fine dining foundation, but with a modern view on how we use ingredients.”

When I ask whether he prefers to cook in silence, he answers instantly. “I need music. It was one of the first things I sorted out once I could afford it. I installed speakers inside the kitchen.” Still, he confesses with a smile, “Unfortunately my taste in music is in the minority among my team, so they’re not exactly thrilled when I take over the playlist.” Mikael stopped developing new musical tastes at 25. Instead of following trends, he discovers “new” music by diving into old artists he had never listened to before, a philosophy that aligns with his culinary pursuit of new ideas built on classic techniques.

The name “Kontrast” is no coincidence. As in music, contrast can have a significant impact; for Svensson it's a central principle in designing his dishes. He draws a parallel to Metallica’s iconic album with the San Francisco Symphony. “You have all these classical instruments combined with a modern rock band,” he says. That interplay, old and new, classical and contemporary, embodies his approach to Scandinavian cuisine.

Rock music is often associated with rebellion and pushing limits, and Svensson sees a clear link to his cooking. “I try to think outside the box and avoid doing what I already know works. Many times I add things to a dish that normally make no sense, but the goal is to combine familiar ingredients in new ways.”

Scandinavian musicians, whether Swedish death metal, black metal, or even ABBA, have long pushed artistic boundaries. Are Scandinavian chefs doing the same? “Musicians in Scandinavia were definitely pioneers long before the chefs,” Svensson says. “Chefs, though naturally curious, only in the last five years started to become open and willing to break culinary borders.”

Our conversation turns to the trend of fine dining restaurants collaborating with DJs or even live bands. “Music enhances the dining experience in every way. Restaurants are places of total sensory experience, and if you add senses beyond taste, the result becomes more compelling and impressive. Some believe music is distracting, but I disagree.”

Musicians often improvise during a concert. But what happens in a two-star Michelin restaurant like Kontrast? “As the years go by, I think I allow less improvisation, but that’s not a rule. Total choreography doesn’t satisfy me, I find it boring. Some of the best things come from pressure and improvisation.”

When Svensson is forced to improvise due to supply issues or weather-related availability, surprising ideas often emerge. “Some of those dishes turn out truly wonderful and end up staying on the menu.”

For him, the creative process in the kitchen is very much like writing a song. “You start with a guitar riff and then add the bass as you build. Or maybe you start with the lyrics and add the music after. That’s exactly how I create dishes.”

Nowhere is his philosophy more evident than in the so-called “transition dish,” the course bridging the shift from main dishes to desserts. “I work very hard on that. At Kontrast we don’t call it a pre-dessert; we call it a transition dish,” he explains.

This idea came from his dislike of abrupt changes. “The worst thing for me is when you’re in a restaurant and you can immediately tell that one dish is made by the chef and the next by the pastry chef.” Currently, the transition dish features black koji ganache, roasted and dehydrated beets, and seaweed ice cream. “You get the sweetness, but there’s essentially no sugar. You feel the direction toward dessert, but the dish is still almost savory.”

The restaurant’s Green Star is no accident. Ninety-eight percent of Kontrast’s ingredients come from local, organic sources, with only saffron, caviar, and truffles imported. Herbs are grown on the building’s rooftop, and the team practices preservation techniques blending Scandinavian heritage with Japanese knowledge.

My final question for Mikael, naturally, is musical. What soundtrack would accompany a meal at Kontrast? “A tough one,” he says. “But the last track would definitely be a big rock ballad with a very long instrumental ending.”